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Kosher Soul

A warm February sun beams through the skylight above the entry hall of the Jewish Museum of Maryland. On most Sundays, the building is bustling with Baltimoreans exploring various Jewish history exhibits, but today the smells of sautéed vegetables waft through the halls instead.

Stationed at a table looking out at an audience of about 100 people, Michael W. Twitty, a culinary historian who is both black and Jewish, wears a knitted black kippah, a Jewish head covering, while preparing the first of several dishes for a cooking demonstration he calls “Kosher Soul.”

Twitty often travels to historic homes and plantations to prepare food much as people did in the 19th century, but today he is demonstrating his culinary talents with dishes that fuse his African-American and Jewish identities to coincide with the museum’s exhibit on Jewish cuisine.

The setup is not that different from what you would find on a cooking show, just without the cameras—or the bacon. Twitty shares stories about his childhood in the Deep South as well as the Jewish culture he’s come to embrace while he sautés his vegetables. He says that he came to his adopted faith through food and that how and what we eat often connects our identities.

Audience members, mostly women, many Orthodox Jews, peer forward as Twitty cooks. For his first dish, he delicately prepares a recipe that perfectly combines his two identities: pastrami and collard green spring rolls. Why spring rolls, you may ask?

“Blacks and Jews may not agree on many things,” Twitty explains, as he mixes the meat and the greens, “but the one thing we do agree on is Chinese food.”

Originally published by Baltimore magazine.

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